India Tourism » Gurudwara Hemkund Sahib

HIGH ALTITUDE HOLINESS: GURUDWARA HEMKUND SAHIB
Govindghat is where the trek to Ghangharia begins. Sitting at a small dhaba (roadside eatery) I can see a serpentine trail of pilgrims on their way to Hemkund Sahib, the gurudwara (place of worship for Sikhs) on the edge of Hemkund, a high altitude glacial lake. Past the market and over the bridge across the foaming Alaknanda River, we set off on the track along with the mules and pithoos (porters with carry baskets on their backs).

It takes us about six hours to cover the 13-km path that meanders through the hills, levelling out near villages set among terraced fields. It’s said that one cannot reach Ghangaria without the heavens showering rain, and we are no exception. A wispy drizzle soon turns into a torrent and we are drenched by the time we set foot into the busy, bustling little town. Its eateries dish out luscious aloo porothas (potato-stuffed Indian flatbreads) with generous gobs of butter and gulob jomuns (dumplings in sugar syrup).

As if on cue, the weather clears. The sky is a bright blue and a soft zephyr whispers through the trees. It’s completely true. There’s not a soul around and I couldn’t be happier. It is utterly tranquil. The only sounds you can hear are the chirping of birds and the fluttering of their wings. A dragonfly buzzes past me in a hundred shades of green. And then there are the trees; blue pines, cedars, oak, horse chestnut, maple and birch. Masses of ferns, grass, stalks and branches spill onto the path that lives up to its promise of flowers the moment I step onto it. Wild roses in pink and white sweeten the air while a host of bushes covered in blooms compel me to stop every now and then. There is a of slippery ice, boulders to negotiate and a fast-flowing rivulet to be crossed over a mere tin-sheet! the regular path is just short distance away.

FLOWER POWER
The vegetation on the track becomes denser as the track goes across the foaming Pushpawati River, then chaft steeply upwards to another snowy crossing.

Flowers cling to rock surfaces, decorating them with splashes of brilliant mauves, pinks and whites. They clasp on to ledges, peek from under the bushes, and bloom unabashedly on slender stems that bow gracefully with the passing breeze. you walk ahead scrambling over the last bridge from where the valley opens up and you are surrounded by hills. Hills streaked with frozen streams, their nooks and crannies shimmering with snow. A meandering path takes me across vast meadows that are a carpet of white and yellow anemones and the bell-shaped Codonopsis. Here and there the iridescent red Himalayan Cinquefoil makes its presence felt; marsh marigolds thrive in moist patches and next to rivulets. Blue geraniums, alpine forget-me-nots, bushes of translucent dwarf rhododendrons and, deep in the thickets, the enigmatic cobra lilies also make an appearance.

A stream in spate prevents me from venturing too far into the valley. So I sit and gaze at the sun till it moves behind the clouds. It’s time to move on.

LACK MAGIC
Much before sunrise You are on the way to Hemkund, the glacial lake at 15,000 ft. It’s a different experience altogether for my steps are punctuated by innumerable calls of “rasta do” (“give way”) by the mule-drivers, who ferry pilgrims to the gurudwara at the top. Past the tree-line, the trail slush with melting snow leads to a long glacial traverse. Thereafter, I opt for the shorter but steeper path over stone steps that lead straight to the crest. The lake is sheer crystal the far end is still a sheet of ice though the part of it close to us is melted by the innumerable dips taken by the devout. Surrounded by mountains and presently covered in dense fog, it reverberates with the prayers from the gurudwara and the pilgrims’ chants.

Mana is the last village on the trail and just 3 km from Badrinath. I walk along the road, crossing mountain streams that flow merrily across the tarred surface. At the end, a paved path leads into a tiny hamlet settled by the Marcha Bhotiya community. The settlement comprises low-slung stone homes, slate roofs, narrow alleyways, tiny courtyards, and small fields cultivated with ‘lai’ a hill green. Traditionally, nomadic herders spin and dye the wool from their animals, and at almost every doorstep, women in traditional outfits sit and weave colourful asonas (small seating rugs). A cup of chaff (tea) here at the village is a must. It is flavoured with something I can’t quite identify till You aretold it is the local tulsi (basil). I saunter further on to where the Saraswati River hurtles through an opening in the boulders and joins the Alaknanda River just a few hundred metres downstream. The path entices me to explore further but it begins to get dark, there are no lights on the road and the mountains loom large and forbidding.

The valley may be the home of the fairies, but even fairies need to sleep sometime.

Getting there
By Air: Jet Airways has daily flights to, New Delhi from all major cities acres Connecting flights are available to, Dehradun.
By Rail: Several trains ply to both and Haridwar and Dehradun.
By Road.: Hire a four-wheel drive from 150 Dehradun / Haridwar for the journey through the hills. State transport buses ply the routes.

Accommodation
The Garhwal Mandal Vikas Nigam has tourist home in all places. Plenty of accommodation to suit all budgets is available too.

Travel tips
Entry permits to the Valley of Flowers are obtained from the Checkpoint located at the end to the park, half a kilometre about Ghangria. A camera fee is levied: Video cameras are not allowed in the park without rior permission from the Chief Wildlife Warden, Dehradun.

Sturdy waterproof shoes with a grip, rain-gear and walking poles a must for the trek. Carry food water and a personal medical kit. Camping is not allowed at Hemkund or the Valley of Flowers.