India Tourism » Ladakh Travel

As the Indian Airlines (now Air India) plane tore through the clouds to begin its descent, we were greeted by majestic mountains painted in golden hue. Fed by the snow and glaciers of Karakoram, the river Indus looked like paint-strokes of deep blue. Awestruck by the landscape all around us, we sat with our eyes glued to our respective windows.

The Kushok Bakula Rimpoche airport at Leh is situated at an altitude of more than a 10,000 feet the highest in India. As the beautiful air-hostess informed us, the temperature outside was 12O Celsius, really cold when compared with the winter temperatures of our native Bhilai. As we stepped out of the airplane, we immediately felt the lack of oxygen and the snowy morning breeze with its skin-scouring aridness.

Ladakh is many times more beautiful than its pictures. A major draw are the colourful Gompas (Buddhist monasteries). The stunning Hemis, 45 km from Leh, was built by Palden Sara under the patronage of King Singe Namgyal in 17th century. The walls are lined with carved and painted pigeon-holes, each holding a manuscript of a scripture. As we sat in meditation before the enlightened one, we needed no interpreter to understand what he taught.

WHY IT’S A MONSOON DESTINATION
You don’t go there to see the rains, as Ladakh is off the monsoon trajectory Occasionally, some stray monsoon clouds do find their way over the Himalayas, and lately this seems to be happening with increasing frequency But you head for Leh during this time if you want to avoid the rains, and also because the snow makes the region inaccessible the rest of the year.

GETTING THERE
One can fly into Leh from Srinagar, Jammu or Delhi, all the year round. Or one can drive from Manali in the south (473 km), or Srinagar in the west (434 km). Both routes are equally spectacular and time-consuming with winding, narrow roads, and numerous military checkpoints. The road from Srinagar runs at a lower altitude, reducing the risk of altitude sickness. It is also open longer normally from the beginning of June to October. The route from Manali to Leh, also known as a biker’s paradise (one can rent bikes), is only accessible from mid-July to end-September, as it is blocked by snow the rest of the year. The closest train stations are Jammu, Udhampur and Chandigarh, but trains may not run on a daily basis.

WHERE TO STAY
Leh has a large selection of low and mid-range accommodation. The standards of even the cheapest places here tend to be much higher than elsewhere in India. Most of the guest-houses are located in Leh’s northern suburbs in Changspa, Karzoo and surrounding areas, a 5 to 30 minute walk from the centre. Among budget hotels are Hotel Shinge Palace, Khan Manzil Guest House, Tak guesthouse, Old Ladakh Guest House. A little more costly is Hotel Tsomo-Ri.

Must-see
1. The former palace of the king of Ladakh, built in the 17th century. Good views outside.
2. Soma Gompa, the location of the Ladakhi Buddhist Association, a conservative political organisation.
3. Shanti Stupa, built by a Japanes Buddhist group. Modern and kitchy but still worth a visit.
4. Karma Dupgyud choeling a monastery in the Karma Kagyu tradition.
5. Hemis Ladakh’s largest and wealthiest gompa, 45 km from Leh.